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From: umcormi5@ccu.umanitoba.ca (John Cormier)
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: This is TBBOM ver 1.3
Keywords: boom TBBOM pyro bombs
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Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1992 21:18:35 GMT
Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada
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THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.3 10-06-91 [REPLACES TBBOM12.ZIP/ TBBOM12.TXT]
Copyright 10/06/91 by CHAOS Indus. All Rights Reserved with 3 exceptions:
UNLIMITED Distribution in cybernetic media of an UNMODIFIED copy of
this document is allowed, with the following exceptions:
1. If a FEE is charged for access to this file or for
downloading in general , the authors must receive 25% of such
fee or $19.95, whichever is greater.
2. This document may NOT be distributed via COMPUSERVE.
3. Users are allowed to make no more than two (2) complete and
unmodified hardcopy versions of this file for personal use.
If you did NOT receive this file in the form of a 98K ZIP file, it is
likely that you do not have a complete copy. To obtain one, send E-mail to the
addresses mentioned below. Fine bound softcover versions of this document will
be made available in late winter 1991. To get one of this limited signed and
numbered edition, send $19.95 + 5.50 S&H to:
BOX 438, 71 E. 32nd St. Chicago, IL 60616
Make all checks and money orders payable to: LASERSCRIBE, INC.
Preface
10/5/91- Editing of the file is assumed by Vlad Tepes. Plans are currently
being made to convert the character graphics to bitmaps, as well as plans for
eventual hardcopy distribution. Updates will be distributed on the RIPCO BBS
at (312) 528-5020 and over the USENET via the rec.pyrotechnics newsgroup.
By version 1.5 I hope to have .GIF files to replace the current character
graphics, and to have removed all duplicate entries.
Note from the Editor:
To make suggestions, corrections, or to
submit new information, send mail to:
to DAVID RICHARDS on the RIPCO BBS, or:
cshawk_pro38@iitvax.iit.edu
cshawk_pro38@iitvax.bitnet
Please refer to any items by section number or EXACT section heading.
Note from the author:
Remember, the First Amendment is not a shield. Care must be taken to ensure
that no law is broken when information is gained or divulged. I have read
every word of this file, and swear that no article of this document is illegal
in any way.
REVISION HISTORY
1987-1989 Compilation of original file
Early 1990 Original file lost in crash
August 8, 1990 File reborn as The Compleat Terrorist Today, August 8th,
1990, at 1 AM, I found a copy of The Terrorist's Handbook on
a BBS, and recombined it with some other G-files.
March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but regained TCT
from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some
redundancies, and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size
is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish to print this
file out and bind it)
April 12, 1991 File revised by Vlad Tepes on Ripco II. Some deletions and
many valuable additions. I (The Editor) felt that the file
should have version numbers, so, in light of the additions by
Vlad Tepes, the first volume number is 1.1.
July 29, 1991 Revisions and addenda by Vlad Tepes. A revision is a change
in the information (The original text is immediately followed
by the new information) and an addendum refers to new
information.
October 6, 1991 Vlad Tepes assumes the job of co-author/editor. A few
neccessary deletions are made, as well as minor cosmetic
changes and additions.
begin "THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF"
PART 1 - The Terrorist's Handbook - Self explanatory.
THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK
1.0 INTRODUCTION
Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is proud to present this revised edition of The
Terrorist's Handbook. First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos
Industries assumes no responsibilities for any use of the information
presented in this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many
techniques and methods used by those people in this and other countries who
employ terror as a means to acheive political and social goals. The techniques
described here may be found in public libraries, and can often be carried out
by a terrorist with minimal resources. The processes and techniques herein
SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH
COULD RESULT FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS
PUBLICATION. ALTHOUGH ALL EFFORTS HAVE BEEN MADE TO INSURE ACCURACY THIS IS
MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!
We feel that it is important that everyone has some idea of just how easy it
is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is the justification for
the existence of this publication.
1.1 Table of Contents
컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴�
2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 ........ Black Powder
2.02 ........ Pyrodex
2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder
2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.05 ........ Flash Powder
2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.11 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks
2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 ........ Nitric Acid
2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid
2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 ........ Explosive Theory
3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate
3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine
3.14 ........ Picrates
3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 ........ Black Powder
3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose
3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
3.24 ........ Perchlorates
3.25 ........ Flash Powder
3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.31 ........ R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
3.32 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.33 ........ ANFOS
3.34 ........ T.N.T.
3.35 ........ Potassium Chlorate
3.36 ........ Dynamite
3.37 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives
3.38 ........ Picric Acid
3.39 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.40 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride
3.41 ........ Lead Azide
3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
3.51 ........ Thermite
3.52 ........ Molotov Cocktails
3.53 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle
3.54 ........ Bottled Gas Explosives
3.6 ......... Dry Ice
4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 ....... SAFETY
4.11 ........ How Not To Get Killed
4.12 ........ Guidelines For Production
4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition
4.22 ........ Impact Ignition
4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition
4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition
4.241 ....... Mercury Switches
4.242 ....... Tripwire Switches
4.243 ....... Radio Control Detonators
4.3 ....... DELAYS
4.31 ........ Fuse Delays
4.32 ........ Timer Delays
4.33 ........ Chemical Delays
4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41 ........ Paper Containers
4.42 ........ Metal Containers
4.43 ........ Glass Containers
4.44 ........ Plastic Containers
4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.51 ........ Shaped Charges
4.52 ........ Tube Explosives
4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions
4.54 ........ Lightbulb Bombs
4.55 ........ Book Bombs
4.56 ........ Phone Bombs
5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.12 ........ Blowgun Ammunition
5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition
5.22 ........ Shotguns
5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS
6.1 ....... ROCKETS
6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.2 ........ CANNONS
6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon
6.23 ........ Reinforced Pipe Cannon
7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs
7.2 ......... Colored Flames
7.3 ......... Tear Gas
7.4 ......... Fireworks
7.41 ........ Firecrackers
7.42 ........ Skyrockets
7.43 ........ Roman Candles
8.0 ....... LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0 ....... CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.0 ...... USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
11.0 ...... ABOUT THE AUTHOR
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or
more pharmacies. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit
in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know
something about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for
example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with
each different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black
powder depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade
of powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the
smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the
smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a
confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable.
The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual
bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning
powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are
listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
컴컴� 컴컴컴컴컴 컴컴컴컴컴컴컴
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more
surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades
also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black
powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the
grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of
powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited
accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb
moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a one would use a plastic spoon and
a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply
pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or
circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one
wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to
fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Any adult can purchase black powder,
since anyone can own black powder firearms in the United States.
2.02 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder,
and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not
be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to
absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and
dried.
2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a
fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube
length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done,
the gray fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain in
the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This
should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from
1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the
more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per
package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in
stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized
for their explosive powder.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Smokeless gunpowder is made
by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some
other cellulose material. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then
reformed in the desired grain size. When dealing with smokeless gunpowder,
the grain size is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large
and small grained smokeless powder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder
when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter and with
more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding
process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary for
smokeless powder. owder costs about $9.00 per pound. In most states any
citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are currently
few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now ID checks in
many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet. Mail-orders aren't
subject to such checks. Rifle powder and pyrodex may be purchased by mail
order, but UPS charges will be high, due to DOT regulations on packaging.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered aluminum metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot
white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.
It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. Flash powder is often
made with aluminum and/or magnesium. Zirconium metal is the main ingredient in
flash BULBS, but is too expensive to be used in most flash powder mixtures.
2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a
commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro-
glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-
Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist
of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium
nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag,
remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed,
airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb
water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs,
and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab
buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most
of the labs will still be unlocked.
2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin
pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all
these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the
latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open. This is
done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing
the latch back into the door.
Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door
closed while the second (smaller) finger only prevents the first finger from
being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate
of the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently
far, the second finger will slip out enough to permit the first finger to be
slipped.
(Ill. 2.11) ___
| } <
Small -> (| } <--- The large (first) finger
second |___} <
finger
Some methods for getting through locked doors are:
1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the
frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to
the above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed
with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position
horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it
out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after
shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few signs of
forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete block buildings,
and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding
them apart, try to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely
innocent, are much more subtle than auto jacks, and much faster if they
work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would work too, but
then why bother to slip the lock at all?
3) Find a set of double doors. They are particularly easy to pry apart far
enough to slip.
4) If the lock is occasionally accessible to you while open, "adjust" or
replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably (i.e., work so
that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If
you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make
it much easier to pick.
5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door
opens outward), remove the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with
welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too lacks subtlety, in spite of its
effectiveness.
6) If the door cannot be slipped and you will want to get through regularly,
break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to make the first finger
retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g.,
Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially,
yet otherwise work in all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or
screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be used not to damage the
door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to
attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/....
7) Look around in desks. People very often leave keys to sensitive things
in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared critical
resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that
everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a
tracing (lay key under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a
wax impression. Get blanks for the key type (can be very difficult for
better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that if you can
get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with
a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a
micrometer works best: keys made from mic measurements are more likely
to work consistently than keys made by any other method. If you us
tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that
works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble
it, pin levels can be obtained and keys constructed.
8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have
simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be
consistently picked by a patient person in a few minutes. A small
screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced hands. Apply
a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the
screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With
practice, you'll apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins
will align properly (they'll catch on the cylinder somewhere between the
top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all lined up,
additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in
conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older
or sloppily machined locks that have a fair amount of play in the
cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked in this manner, if
their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins
to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it
generally takes a *lot* of patience.
9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take
breaks. Make the most of your opportunities.
10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes
anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to
look inconspicuous. If there are several of you, have some innocuous and
normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy! What time is it?") so that
they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large groups
at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's
aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually
*like* to help people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you
do run into security people, try to make sure that there won't be any
theft or break-ins reported there the next day...
11) Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a
building or department will have a common master (building entrance keys
are a common exception). Take apart some locks from different places
that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths in
each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those
places you're *really* curious about.
12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the
lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or
similar tool can then be used to open the lock, if desired.)
2.11.1 SLIPPING A LOCK
The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It
is quite flexible, so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent
as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly strong, and pulls
nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs,
etc., work just fine on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb
is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully effective. Don't
leave home without one.
(Ill. 2.11.1 #1)
The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that
looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
(Ill. 2.11.1 #2)
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
(Ill. 2.11.1 #3)
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities
have very strict policies about unauthorized possession of keys. At
most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal
charges. Don't get caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are
particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks
that the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]
we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are
various nasty things that can be done to catch you and/or slow you down. For
instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any
key used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least
don't leave fingerprints on it. Or make sure they're someone else's. Too
much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey.
2.11.2 OPENING MASTER "WARDED" LOCKS (by Vlad Tepes)
These are the lock with the keys that look like this:
(Ill. 2.11.2 #1)
_ _
/ \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \
\_/ [] [] [] []
Just file the key down so it looks like this:
(Ill. 2.11.2 #2)
_ _
/ \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~
\_/ []
Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and
down, turning as you pass each block, to find the internal lever that will
release the latch. It's possible that some of the newer locks have more than
one lever, which makes the process much more difficult.
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and
drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven
ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores,
nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops (The Alley at
Belmont/Clark, Chgo)
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
mercury mercury thermometers supermarkets,
hardware stores
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores
glycerine pharmacies/drug stores
sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets